LINLITHGOW LANDMARKS
INTRODUCTORY. Our present observations will be limited to objects of interest from Linlithgow by way of Riccarton and Ochiltree, towards Ecclesmachan and Uphall. The road is a hilly one, but all the more romantic, and it is diversified by picturesque glades, which open out at unexpected points of view, and in the most fanciful manner. These glades or little glens, as a rule stretch from west to east, in the same direction as the ranges of hills generally, and hence they drain the adjacent elevations. Nature is so varied in her scenic attractions that lands at a distance which appear one regular slope of rising ground, when more nearly approached become broken up into undulating ridges and romantic dells. So it is in the present instance. An observer from any point of view north-east of Linlithgow, unless he had actually trod the road, could not believe that the lands between him and Riccarton hills were broken up in such multiform fashion, thereby giving pasturage and shelter to multitudes of cattle, and to the husbandman good land susceptible of tillage. Indeed, to such extent was this latter the case that the services of the steam plough were being brought into requisition on the day of our visit to that quarter last week, and with her double tier of five furrows, that wonderful agricultural implement was turning over the soil 'broadcast.' However, we are anticipating, and shall begin at the beginning. SOUTHWARD, HO! Having succeeded in threading our way in a somewhat zig-zag fashion, underneath railway bridges, and over canal ones, too, we emerged at length, high and dry, upon the road leading south from the burgh towards the parish manse. This labyrinthic exploration was not effected without considerable trouble, and not until after several interrogatories at passers-by as to the direct route, having been answered in the affirmative. There are some beautiful villas on both sides of the way before coming to the parsonage, which, though difficult of ascent, yet have a fine situation, and a commanding view. In fact all the villas in the south side of the town are highly favoured in this respect. The manse has been considerably enlarged of late, almost a duplicate of its former self has been added to it on its south side; yet, with all, it does not come up to the mark of improvement, in an architectural sense. It has still its antiquated look. A two-storeyed wing, thrown out on the north-east front, with two large oriel windows, would have obviated the defect of its bald appearance, and given to the entire edifice an un-proved and modern look. As it is, it is no doubt commodious enough, and its internal arrangements complete and satisfactory, but all these might have been effected, and its external aspect vastly improved by the alterations indicated. The rev. incumbent is getting a splendid, weighty, and expensive organ put up in the western gallery of the church. The church itself is also in excellent order, properly painted, and heated with hot water pipes, a decided improvement upon sulphur engendering stoves. HUNTLEY RANGE. At the distance of three quarters of a mile south from Linlithgow, the road deflects to the south -east. To the right of this bend is Huntley farm, possessed by Mr Smith, and the property, we believe, of a Miss Thomas. On this farm is the rifle range and practising butts of the Linlithgow Rifle Volunteers. They have here capital ground for practice, and at a respectable distance from the din and bustle of the town. Indeed, a more suitable place could not be selected for the purpose than the particular locality fixed upon. Further east, on the same side, on a range of hills, is the farm of Hillhouse, belonging to the Earl of Selkirk, on which there is also a good freestone quarry, but which has not been in operation for some years past, owing, principally, to the difficulty and expense in having the material conveyed away after being quarried out. On the left, that is, the north side of the road, are the farms of Parkley Craigs, tenanted by Mr Wilson, and belonging to Mr Seton of Prestonhall; Cauldhame and Parkley, belonging to Mr Johnston Stewart of Champflourie. Cauldhame is adjoining the public road, while Parkley is further away to the north east, and is leased to Mr Wilson, Riccarton. RICCARTON. This was once a village, composed of from thirty to forty houses and contained a grocer's, smith's, and joiner's shop. There is still one of the last-mentioned trades in the place. There was also, some fifty or sixty years ago, a meal mill a little way down Riccarton Water, but it also has disappeared. So that all that remains of this once considerable village is a good and large home-looking farm-steading, of which Mr Wilson is the tenant, and the landlord the Earl of Selkirk. To the south of this farm, and on the north base of Riccarton hills, is the farm and steading of Broomknowes, also tenanted by Mr Wilson, but this tenant, the tenant of Riccarton and Parkley, and the tenant of Parkley Craigs, though all three bear the same patronymic, that is , all three being Wilsons, yet they are no relations, as far as known to each other. Riccarton, it would appear, means Richard's town, but how it came to have its present name is not now very easily explained. There is a parish in Ayshire bearing the same name, and probably the proprietor there was also proprietor of the Riccarton now before us. The one in Ayrshire is said to take its name from Sir Richard Wallace, uncle to the patriot Sir Willaim Wallace. Whether the Riccarton of Linlithgow can claim such honourable distinction, history saith not, that is, affirmatively or negatively. One thing is clear, it occupies a finely sheltered situation. Broomyknowes, which rise to an elevation of upwards of 800 feet above sea level, screen it effectually from the south and south-west blasts, while in the other directions it is nearly as well guarded from the frosts and colds of winter. BROOMYKNOWES. In historical and parochial records these heights go under the general appellation of Riccarton Hills, but in the vernacular language of the people in the district around, they are universally termed as above, Broomyknowes, and by this name we shall distinguish them. They consist in the main of one huge hill surmounted with half-a-dozen knolls or so, like one huge grampus or whale, with just as many tubercles on his back stretching in one direction, namely, from north to south. The knowes seem to be divested of their broom now, however much they may have at one time been covered, so that now the appellation of Broomyknowes is not so applicable as in former times it may have been. There is a lingering sweetness in the name of which it is not easy for the mind to divest itself. Perhaps the beautiful song of the 'Broom of the Cowden Knowes,' may have something to do in keeping alive the feeling. Even on the braes between Lauder and Melrose, which are termed the Cowdenknowes, very few of the brooms now remain, so that the air and chorus are mostly all that remain in reality of that sweet song.
'The broom, the broom, the bonny, bonny broom,
In conjunction with the Longmoor plantation on the east side, the Broomyknowes make excellent fox covers. No fewer than three were casually stated the other day by a gentleman who was out coursing and who in the end had some difficulty in restraining his dog from pursuing Messers Reynard. A fox hunt over these hills must be a very exciting chase. The hills, however, are naked and bare, so that Reynard must look out for himself if he keeps long upon them, doubling won't do, so he makes it a rule to go with the wind. However, we will let him and the fox-hounds to shift for themselves as best they may, and we will pursue our way uphill towards OCHILTREE. But it may be said that we are away to Ayrshire again, because Ochiltree is also the name of a parish in that famous classic county. Our own opinion is that when Linlithgow was the seat of Royalty, Lords Riccartoun and Ochiltree held respectively these estates in Linlithgowshire and named them after their larger ones in the west, and hence they continued to hold their names even after they had changed owners. Ochiltree, it appears, was possessed in 1559 by Cardinal Beaton. It is now the property of the Earl of Rosebery, and was at one time believed to be occupied as the family residence of that nobleman. It was an ancient fortalice at all events, and a pretty formidable one in its day. When it was originally built is not now known. It was rebuilt in 1736, but was afterwards allowed to go out of repair, and continued uninhabitable up to 1812, when the holder of the earldom at that time caused it to be put in order, and the tenant of the farm, Mr Robertson and his family, have continued to occupy it down to the present. There are several initials cut out on the triangular stones above the door, but it is difficult to decipher them with any degree of accuracy. The present building is three storeys high; of a square form and must have had turrets at each of the corners, and have covered considerably more space than is now occupies. The peerage of Ochiltree was held, it may be stated, by the family of Colville, and was afterwards acquired by Lord Stewart of Avondale, who procured a patent creating him Lord Stewart of Ochiltree. The peerage became dormant in 1675. The barony however, having passed entire through different transmissions, was about 1817 sold off in different lots to different purchasers. So much for the peerage and barony of Ochiltree in Ayrshire. The name Ochiltree signifies a lofty dwelling place, so that that is certainly an appropriate definition of the Linlithgowshire one. A mere fitting name could not have been given. There is quite a little village with a smithy about Ochiltree Castle. Mr Flint is also tenant of a part of Ochiltree and a younger brother of the present Mr Robertson of Ochiltree Castle, is tenant of Ochiltree Mill Farm situated a little to the south. BINNIE CRAIG. Fronting the traveller eastward is Binnie Craig with his bold and shaggy brow, presenting the most remarkable land-mark in the whole county. Search Scotland throughout its length and breadth, inland and such another remarkable figure as Binnie Craig will not be found. It is unique in itself. Arthur's Seat towers away in majesty towards the skies, but Binnie as you approach him seems to stand on his own feet, and to from upon you. In general our tour at a distance he is said to give the spectator a pretty fair representation of the pyramids of Egypt. We had the curiosity to ascend his top. This we accomplished on his east side where the ascent is a gradual slope. The north-west side is a steep precipice. The stone of which the Craig is composed is of a fine soft slaty texture. Binnie Craig is on the farm of Broadlaw tenanted by Mr West, and belongs, we believe to the Earl of Rosebery. On its north base is Hangingside, while to the east is Oatridge, tenanted by Mr Thomas Young, formerly of Bathgate, and on the estate of Binnie, belonging to Mrs Stewart. Both Hangingside and Oatridge are in a high state of cultivation. BINNIE HOUSE. This was the residence and property of Captain Stewart, R.N.,long convenor of the County of Linlithgow. It is now occupied by his lady, who has survived him. The house is situated about half-a-mile to the south-east of Binnie Craig, and well surrounded with plantation, though not to such an extent as to interrupt in the slightest degree the fine prospect which it commands in all directions, and more especially to the north. The house itself makes no pretentions to display or extravagance, but is chaste and commodious, and is built upon the principle of having a due regard to the size of the estate. It is approached by a neat porter lodge at the entrance from the east. ECCLESMACHAN. The origin of the name is evidently Ecclesia Machani, that is the church of St. Machan. No doubt, in former times the church was dedicated to a saint of that name. The affix is common to some other places in Scotland. The parish of Dalserf was formerly called Machanshire. Ecclesmachan is corrupted into the familiar name of Inchmachan; Cockburnspath into Coppersmith; Rutherglen into Ruglen; Linlithgow into Lithgow, and so on, so that the popular name of Inchmachan is not at all peculiar. The parish is divided into two sections-- the north and south, which in the centre are a mile separated from each other. Very strangely, again at Dechmont, on the road from Bathgate to Uphall, the southern part of the parish skirts the highway, while the northern extremity of the parish is intersected at Three-mile town by the turnpike from Linlithgow to Winchburgh. The distance from these points, therefore, that is from its north east to its south west extremity may not be less than eight miles. Though not compact, the land generally is highly fertile and well cultivated, and the farm of West Bangour is one of the most valuable in the county, while its steading is surpassed by none. The village itself occupies a retired and lovely spot. The air is well tempered, and therefore salubrious. There is a fine mineral spa, named the Bullion Well; the properties of its waters are equal to those of Moffat Wells. It only requires a proper patron and homoepathist to bring the virtues of its waters into public repute. The village is only a mile distant from Uphall, so that it can be easily reached by parties from either the eastern or western metropolis, or elsewhere. There is no place in the kingdom where greater inducements for building houses are held forth. At speaking distance from the village one of the best freestone quarries in Scotland is in active operation. By Building speculation a thousand or two could be well laid out in dotting the hillside to the north of the manse with fine villas, where health seekers and pleasure seekers also might spend the summer months with much zest and enjoyment. There is a native simplicity about the situation of the parish and its inhabitants, which is worthy of notice, and which bears a favourable comparison to the Waldenses, or the state of the primitive churches. For instance, we are told that there is no public house in the parish, no toll, no grocers' shop, no mid-wife, and no medical practitioner. There is indeed, one now, who holds a diploma as a doctor, but he has a large farm to attend to, and does not practice medicine. The parishoner's, therefore, enjoy peculiar imminities, and are not exposed to the allurements of vice and intemperance to which many of those in larger communities too often fall victims. CLERICAL, &C.
The church is an ancient structure, was almost wholly rebuilt at the beginning of last century,
and remodelled and repaired in 1822. It has recently undergone a thorough renovation and decoration,
and will be formally re-opened on the 20th of the present month by the Rev. Mr Barclay, Linlithgow,
and the Rev. Mr Muir, Polmont. The health and comfort of the present worthy incumbent and his family
have also been duly attended to as the manse has been subjected to a thorough repair and improvement.
The proper drainage both of the church and manse, has also been duly looked after, as all dampness
in and around the exterior walls must carry with it deleterious effects. Precautionary steps in
this direction are in a sanitary point of view of the first importance. It may be stated that an
organ was placed in the church about two years ago to assist in the hymnal services of the church,
and no diversity of opinion on the matter has been expressed since its introduction. The last four
ministers of the parish were--1st, the Rev. Mr Peterkin, who wrote the old Statistical account of
the parish; 2nd, the Rev. Henry Liston, who, in addition to his ministerial qualifications, was also
possessed of an active and mechanical turn of mind. He made an excellent plough and a pair of
efficient harrows. He moreover built an organ, which is doing duty to this day in one of the churches
of Bombay. He was the father of Professor Liston of London, a distinguished and successful surgical
operator, and also Professor Liston who at present occupies with ability the chair of Hebrew and
Hindostanee in the University of Edinburgh. A daughter of his is still living, and resides at the
Den, Aldcathie, with a niece, the daughter of the great surgical operator; 3rd, The successor of
Mr Henry Liston, in the incumbency of the parish, was the Rev. John Smith, D.D., formerly rector
of Bathgate Academy, a celebrated linguist and the writer of the Statistical account of the parish;
4th, The present talented, eloquent, and popular incumbent, the Rev. Mt Shepherd, succeeded in 1869.
He got several calls before settling down at Ecclesmachan, but preferred the quietude and retirement
of a county parish to the ostentatious display of ambitious talent in a metropolitan pulpit. The
school-buildings are situated on a knoll at the west of the village, and have been repaired and
enlarged since the Education Act came into operation. About sixty years ago the parish School stood
on the green to the north-east of the village, but was removed about that time to the present stance.
The present site is an airy and healthy one, and the school is skirted on its west and south sides
by Ecclesmachan burn, which being of easy access to the scholars, though not so deep as to be
dangerous, they may wade its waters during play hours and on holidays at pleasure, gather flowers
on the brae sides adjoining, and may not unaptly quote the lines, in after life, of Burns' song of
'Auld Langsyne'--
The present teacher, Mr Cunningham, is earnest and devoted to his profession; he has laboured diligently and successfully amongst his pupils for the last seventeen years, and has produced not only blossoms but fruit. One of his former pupils is the Rev. John Hastings, Newcastle-on-Tyne, and several others have become teachers and are now certificated masters of public schools. Ecclesmachan has thus been a kind of nursery for training professors, doctors, ministers and teachers. It may be stated that the Parish Church of Ecclesmachan is only seven furlongs distant from that of Uphall. BINNIE QUARRY. This famous freestone quarry is in the immediate neighbourhood of the village of Ecclesmachan, and is on the estate of Binnie, belonging to Mrs Stewart. It is of long standing and has supplied both Glasgow and Edinburgh with many of the stones which adorn its finest buildings, more especially the latter city. The stone is of a hard nature and is admirably adapted for monuments; in fact, its character and quality are so well known and appreciated as to require little notice or recommendation at our hands. We observed, however, that all the newest appliances were being brought into requisition for having the material worked out upon the easiest and most approved plans, and also for pumping the water. A steam crane is on the ground for lifting up the large blocks, and a machine for cutting the stones preparatory for ashler-work, was in active operation. But what we admired most of all was the traction steam engine for conveying the stones from the quarry to the loading-dock at the canal at Broxburn, a distance at least of two miles and a half. The engine goes along the side of the public road, and does its work efficiently. Mr Walter Duncan is the enterprising lessee of Binnie Quarry. (Copyright reserved.) L.L.
LINLITHGOW LANDMARKS
The route on the present occasion is from Linlithgow by Cockleroi, Bormie, North Mains, &c, towards Bangour and Dechmont. But as there are one or two points worthy of notice at Ecclesmachan, which we were unable to overtake last week, we shall dispose of them first. ECCLESMACHAN HERITORS, &C. The Heritors of this parish are few in number and consist of, 1st the Earl of Hopetoun, the proprietor of Three-mile-toon, Waterston, Kirklands, &c., who is also superior of the village; 2nd Mr Thomson, of Craigbinning, the proprietor of East Bangour, tenanted by Mr Wylie; and Law, tenanted by Mr Frater; Burnhouse, by Mr Wallace; and Blackridge, by Mr Addison. Craigbinning is a fine residence for a country gentleman, and is situated a little to the north west of Uphall village. It is occupied by the proprietor during the summer months; 3rd Mr Mitchell Innes proprietor of West Bangour; and 4th Mr Turnbull, of West Binny and Bankhead. We must also do justice to the merits of another gentleman-- a self made man, viz, Mr James Russell, road surveyor, we believe, for the County, Inspector of poor and collector of poor-rates for the parish. He occupies a neat cottage in the village, deserves credit for unswerving perseverance in the upward coarse of life, for strict intigrity and general usefulness. It is a pleasing and refreshing sight to see a man rise from the ranks and pursue an honourable and successful career. This can be done in Scotland as well as abroad and although competition may be keen the success when achieved is all the more meritorious. LORD BINNING. When treating of this part of the country, the notice would not be complete without referring to the courtesy title of Lord Binning, held by the eldest son of the Earl of Haddington. The eastern part of the parish of Linlithgow as it is known now, was formerly called the parish of Binning, although now it is absorbed by the parish which bears the county name. Whether the title of Lord Binning was taken from this now defunct parish, or from Binnie Craig, or from both conjoined; is a matter that cannot well be cleared up in a satisfactory manner now. One thing is plain that the title was granted and assumed by royal authority. Sir Thomas Hamilton, of Forrestfield and Whitelaw, an eminent lawyer, President of the Court of Session and Secretary of state, had been created Baron Binning and Byres in 1613, and Earl of Melrose in 1619. In 1627 deeming the earldom of a county mere, consequential, or as sounding better than that of a mere town, the Earl of Melrose obtained the royal permission to change his title into that of the Earl of Haddington. This latter earldom had formerly been held by Lord Ramsay of Barns, a branch of the Dalhousie family; but this nobleman dying without issue in 1625, the title and honours connected therewith reverted to the crown, and were thus conferred upon Sir Thomas Hamilton, who had been created Lord Binning, Earl of Melrose, &c. The 9th Earl of Haddington was in 1829, created a British peer under the title of Earl of Melrose, of Tynninghome, and in 1834-5 was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. The family of Baillie of Jerviswood succeeded to the earldom some years ago, and George Baillie, uncle of the present Earl was Sheriff of Stirlingshire, and was afterwards promoted to the bench, and took the title of Jerviswood. - End of the Ecclesmachan section of the article, my thanks to Katrena for taking the time & effort to make this treasure visible for all. -
|